Home > Juicer Resources > Norwalk Juicers Troubleshooting Q & A > Juicer Starts, But Has Issues

1. My juicer turns on, but the press plate doesn’t go up or down

This is somewhat of a common problem on models 275 and later, but it has an easy fix. Norwalk transitioned from a v belt to an oring style belt somewhere in the production of the 270 model and all of the 275 and later models. These drive belts work great but tend to have a shorter life than the original v belt style drive belt.

Here is what to look for:

1. Turn the juicer around so you are looking at the back of the unit. You will find a series of (12) ½” holes vertically spaced.
2. Use a flashlight to look through those holes into the back of the juicer
3. The upper, smaller, pulley is visible along with the lower, larger pulley.
4. Along with these pulleys should be the drive belt. With keeping the previously mentioned models in mind, you should see the clear oring style belt
5. If the belt has come off or failed, it should be quite obvious.
6. This clear Oring style belt may be yellow from age and either sitting, broken in the bottom of the juicer or derailed and sitting off to the side.

How do I fix a broken belt? Here is the process:

1. There are a series of screws in the back cover that need to be removed
2. First, unplug the power cord
3. Next remove the (3) screws that are vertically placed next to the (12) vertical holes you looked through to find the broken belt.
4. Next remove the (2) screws on the back cover, the side with the cord.
5. The next set of screws to remove are the (2) around the cover, the side that has the switch mounted in it. Don’t remove the switch screws or the (2) vertical screws in the corner where the switch is positioned.
6. By leaving the (2) screws in the corner, the cover stays secured and indexed for reinstallation.
7. Now that the cover can be partially opened, access to the belt can be had.
8. These belts can be a challenge to reinstall, so see our belt installation video at:

If you need a new drive belt, check out this link:

2. The cutter begins to turn, but the switch clicks off and the unit shuts down

This can be caused by a few different possibilities, but let’s start with the most common.

1. The safety interlock switch isn’t made. The feed tube has a magnet that triggers a reed switch behind the front plate that the feed tube mounts to. If the reed switch does not sense the magnet, the safety circuit isn’t complete. Let’s look at the possible reasons:
A) The feed tube isn’t installed. Without the feed tube in place the safety circuit isn’t made
B) The feed tube is installed upside down. You would believe how common this is. Double check it. For general reference, the grid tray slot is located under the cutter.
C) The magnet has fallen out of the feed tube. The 290 model had (2) of these magnets
D)The reed switch has failed. Call and ask one of our techs how to troubleshoot this possibility

2) The switch has failed. After the all of the possible solutions list above and have been exhausted, the possibility of the switch being faulty is likely